ackets with tuxedo lapel details fell easily over knee-length pants that carried strong zipper highlights. Fitted jackets were marked by authoritative ties, and what followed was the entry of controlled embellishments -- matte gold sequin sheath dresses and wool jackets woven with sequins. The line-up didn't care much for rebellious distractions; silhouettes stayed close to the body.
The dark colour palette made a few exceptions to accommodate teal and copper. Keeping the focus strictly on the concept of role reversal, duality peeped in with one-collar jackets. Subtle knot details accentuated necklines, the back and shoulder, allowing the wearer to stay within permissible limits of celebration.
Hello, Tokyo
Pankaj & Nidhi
At: 3.10 pm
Japanese fashion has earned its impeccable reputation courtesy a fountainhead of designers like Issey Miyake, Yoji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Kenzo and Junya Watanabe. We bet Pankaj & Nidhi's Japan-inspired Autumn of the Samurai collection would've met their standards. The hypnotic beauty of Japanese emblems (Ninja weapon and fan) and bold Art Deco patterns made an energetic debut over a mostly dresses-collection. The 18th century samurai armour was the stimulus to create hand-pieced weaves over knit dresses, interlacing satin tapes through fabrics redefining the technique of ornamentation. Dresses were consistently assertive, defiantly brushing the thigh, and presenting new ideas with geometric flaps and concentric shoulder details. We liked their take on staid leather jackets with quirky patterns in faux leather applique and hand-knotting.
Fashion for feminism
Morphe by Amit Aggarwal
At: 3.10 pmFashion is inherently complex, allowing endless interpretations, opening a whole world of possibilities. Amit Aggarwal could have stirred a revolution for designers who look at the female form with stark objectivity, where fabrics skirt the navel, back and bosom shamelessly, to create an unapologetic silhouette.
His collection exploded with raging feminism; converge to release, disperse to form, close to open, unite to collide. Incomprehensible phrases, yes. But they found fluid interpretations in his clothes. There was a seamless blend of architecture and fluidity, and the wholesome denial to all-things dripping prettiness. The real story unfolded with a robust texture script starring geometric patterns that used silk-wool blends, ribbed silks, leather, mesh and tapes.
Powerless glamour
Shantanu & Nikhil
At: 7 pm
The rambling, even if it is intelligently ticklish, can bombard your senses with excruciating force. And if it's Hollywood director and actor Woody Allen, you have had it. Shantanu and Nikhil unleashed clippings from Hollywood classic, Manhattan starring Woody Allen and Meryl Streep, on to an eager audience, while their vintage-themed clothes trotted on ramp.
In entirety, the line-up spelt red carpet glamour, with luxurious fabrics fashioned on styles worn by stars destined to be fashion policed and blinded by shutterbugs. Satin dresses conquered the ramp with ruffle details, balloon hems, draped shoulders, while a few were embellished with lace and frills. These might inspire attention from leading ladies of Bollywood when they make a star-studded outing, but the collection failed to deliver the Shantanu/Nikhil power punch. That we spotted strong references from Delhi designer sisters Gauri and Nainika's signature style, is a story for another day.
We got distracted by Rapunzel
Sanchita
At: 5.40 pm
Balance is key when it comes to putting a show together. And anyone with an iota of fashion intelligence who walked out of this show, said Sanchita should have toned down the eye-grabbing make-up and accessories. Rapunzel hairdos, doll cutout earrings, bronzed eyebrows were all way too strong a distraction for us to allow us to concentrate on the palazzo pants, jumpsuits and dresses in easy jerseys. Sorry, you lost us.
The most anticipated WLIFW debut
Abraham & Thakore
Preview: Only in Mid Day
It is a glorious fashion moment. The rock steady stalwarts of Indian fashion -- Rakesh Thakore and David Abraham -- will make their ramp debut today after charming the senses of buyers for decades. Their design sensibility works in tandem with traditional workmanship rooted in villages of Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat and Bengal.
"We feared that our subtle designs would get lost, since designer clothes tend to be over-exaggerated on ramp. We were quite content showcasing our clothes at stalls. Doing a show was a business decision. We've set up retail chains in major metros of India, and with international buyers turning their attention to India, the timing is perfect," smiles Rakesh. This event, Rakesh feels, is a professional one, managing to grab enough attention from international buyers, making it an exciting proposition for the duo.
Being tight-lipped about what's in store at their show today, comes effortlessly for the reticent Rakesh. "We don't want to spoil the experience." All he is willing to divulge is that it will have a signature A&T aura, including the presentation and clothes.
"After watching the show, we are sure everyone is going to wonder, 'Is that also what they are capable of? Expectations are high. Even though David and I keep telling each other this will be our first and last collection on ramp, you never know. Let's see where this experience takes us."
Open jung at Fashion Week
The delay in opening Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week thanks to a failure to acquire fire safety permits, led to the entire lot of designers meant to showcase their collections on Wednesday, to be moved to slots on the coming Monday. Satya Paul was part of the unfortunate lot, and a peeved Puneet Nanda (the designer behind the label), is considering backing out of the event.
A fuming Sunil Sethi, president of the FDCI that's organising the event, told MiD Day that if Satya Paul is not participating in Monday's show, they should consider removing their stalls too. "If Puneet has such a problem with us, he should backout completely. Go ask him why is he not removing the stalls?"
"I know he's (Sethi) unhappy. But let me tell him I'm not removing my stalls because it's not practical. We've already lost Rs 50 lakhs," Puneet shot back.
The label is seriously considering giving the event a miss next season too, if they remain dissatisfied with the preparations. "It was our 25th anniversary show. We had invited bureaucrats, corporates, buyers and niche clients. Some of them missed board meetings to be here. How embarrassing it is to invite them, then ask them not to come because the FDCI didn't manage to acquire a clearance from the fire department. When I reached the venue, even the 'concerned people' were clueless," said Nanda. The designer says the bitter experience has taught him a lesson -- to make sure the preparations and permits are in place before he arrives for the show. "Else, goodbye."
Hema held on to Esha, Esha held on to her ghagra
Hema Malini and actress-daughter Esha Deol walked the ramp for designer Rocky S. Looks like Esha had some trouble handling the heavy ghagra that she had hiked up to her ankles (smart move, considering how experienced models trip on acrylic ramp too). We are not sure if mom Hema held on to Esha for support, or to offer her beti help.
Art up your sleeves: Picture a jungle in your wardrobe. The World of Wearable Art (WOW), a unique art-meets-fashion concept that explores the human body as a living canvas, gives you many options. The second day at WLIFW saw the launch of WoW in India. It showcased six designs of the wild including a tribal theme, highlighted by a special photo exhibition by lensmen Rohit Chawla. The designs are unwearable no doubt, but a whole lot of detailing has gone into them. We liked the call of the wild, and the car dress. A WOW awards show is slated for September in New Zealand. "The show is open to all, and an expression by anyone and everyone who wishes to showcase their talent," said Suzie Moncrieff, founder director World of Wearable art. Log on to worldofwearableart.com
