Paris Fashion Week: Emanuel Ungaro spring/summer 2011

Model Karolina Kurkova poses against a vintage car and a garden-like setting at the Parc André Citroën in Paris, where the Emanuel Ungaro was held

It has been a long time coming; but, after a series of false starts over the last few years, the French house of Emanuel Ungaro has got its spirited soul back, in the shape of the award-winning British designer, Giles Deacon.

Deacon, who showed his own label collection at London Fashion Week last month, presented his first collection for Ungaro in Paris this morning.
Wearing an Ungaro suit and shirt, and with a spotted silk tie specially made for him the day before by the couture atelier, Deacon spoke enthusiastically about his latest debut.
"I read a comment that Mr Ungaro said, which I thought was so brilliant, that he loved the idea of clothes trembling on the hangers. I loved that idea, it was my inspiration," said Deacon.
"I went through all the archives, from the 60s all the way through, in order to understand the feeling, the subtlety, the softness of the Ungaro heritage."
"I wanted the collection to be super-sophisticated, gorgeous, vivacious, sensual - really, just beautiful clothes."
The collection, for spring/summer 2011, was all that - soft, feminine and deliciously sensual - especially in a group of naughty-but-nice peekaboo, Little Black Dresses, some worn over matching lingerie, others accessorised with shining silver and crystal brassieres.
The models, including Vogue Japan's Anna Dello Russo, and some wearing brightly-coloured ostrich feather "Mohican" hats, by the London milliner, Stephen Jones, strolled around a fantasy garden in the glass monolith in the Parc André Citroën, which was decorated with flower-strewn cars and surmounted by silken butterflies.
Pastel tweed suits shimmered with flower appliqués; gently-draped day dresses featured a little twist of fabric to just on-the knee; swathed, one-shoulder, evening gowns came in aquamarine silk crepe; and lacy black knits were slipped under metallic tweed jackets, with evening shorts, embroidered with jet-beads and pearls.
From the Swarovski-crystal beaded belts and bustiers, to the high-heeled shoes in black and white stripes and pink polka-dots, with glittering garnishes, everything spoke of flirtatious femininity, and a renewed fashion soul