Paris Fashion Week: Vivienne Westwood spring/summer 2011
But the clothes, with their references to past civilizations, and heart motifs, also represented the fashion dowager's determined stance against global warming.
Her show was staged in a vast white pavilion built on the banks of the Seine, close by the Alexandre Trois bridge.
In an impassioned note left on the seats, Dame Vivienne spoke of the importance of learning from the past, of respecting the planet, and securing the future.
And, in a Paris season when both Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, and Christophe Decarnin at Balmain, have reached back to punk, Westwood, the high priestess of the punk movement, ignored it.
Her inspirations, instead, touched on Tutankhamen, Inca priestesses, Henri Matisse, Japanese 'Noh' theatre, Comedia dell'Arte, and the ballet.
As the music switched from Rachmaninov to Scottish folk tunes, these references gave rise to many of Westwood's best-loved silhouettes: cleavage-bodices, with swathed shoulders, allied to ruched,bunched long skirts, or a perky mini, in a tapestry-floral. Pale metallic tartan taffeta was used for bloused dresses with wide belts and a train; and a floral ballgown, with fishtail-skirt, was cinched with a belt stamped with the word 'fragile'.
A black and white-checked mini-corset bared the midriff, atop a vast red taffeta crinoline; and a 'prairie girl' gown, in tobacco, was finished with a studded leather belt which trailed down the back.
Westwood also showed loosely-fitted, striped shirt-dresses; wide-collared jackets layered over longer shirts and trousers; and bow-tied bustiers with baggy jeans, held up by a single brace, slung crosswise over the body.
Many designs were accessoried with brightly coloured bags, produced in Kenya by female micro-entrepreneurs who live in the slums of Nairobi, under an International Trade Centre project, in conjunction with the UN and World Trade Organization, which Westwood is a passionate supporter of.
"All designed with the idea of 'buy less, choose well, wear it over and again and have fun with your own ideas', was Westwood's mission statement, adding - 'PS: I am not depressed. But we must stop climate change'.
